Supposed to be 'grey' but at the end it's an interesting tint midway between grey and olive drab. But I spotted some spray cans of special automotive plastic paint. I didn't search for brown bess, I don't have an airbrush. I let the fan on during the oven pre heat then I bake the primed parts at 45-50☌ (not really baking and it's not Powder Coating, just a way to get the solvents out quicker and it hardens the paint). The air exhaust is so nice, no more paint stinking in the basement, vapors are taken out almost instantly. I forgot to fix that prior molding / casting. That's due the the part wall which bended inward. I knew from here that there will be a naughty seam between the upper and lower body, I used some bondo to minimize this but still. I plan to have working switches here and there, so I placed one in the hama remote The upper body mentioned above is the top part with the white/clear washer and the black rod inserted in it. Still I have big plans for the electronics, to make FAR better than the MR version. I could still get a vivitar flash and the flash calculator card but I would prefer to save that for a screen accurate project if I ever make one. The project won't be very 'accurate' due to the kit format & no vintage part. The issue is that the part was damaged a lot during all my attempts of covering it with various products. The project waited until chimera bespoke (UK) and I talked about his armor & blaster projects, and since he's a fantastic caster, he re casted the part for me, almost for free. Not on all the surface, just on a few spot. I tried hot water, bath of acetone, vinegar, primer, resin, bondo, nothing will stay. Since PU resin is made of a sort of 'oil', if you don't mix properly with extra care prior casting, you can have either some oil OR some catalyst not mixed properly and it will go out for ever. I think the problem is called resin weeping or sweating. Some parts I saved with a hot air gun (on low temp) and a lighter, getting the plastic hot and reshaping the parts.

Or just an aged kit, parts pressing on each other in the storage box they were in, even if I'm sure spatcave stored it the proper way. When I got the kit, some of it was nice, but some parts dislocated / changed of shape, like if the PU resin was still floppy for a while. Cheap, like 60-70 USD from what I remember. I got a Deck36 kit from spatcave on ebay. Some of the parts are kinda hard to find now. Well I now should ask JQ sabers (UK) if they could spot me a kango power drill to make another one (why not). Long story short, I didn't have the ressources back then to get vintage parts for that prop. That one has been on the back burner for a long time.

Aliens motion tracker sound